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Whenever assembling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned Michelin-starred establishments. But, situated high among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am totally shocked,” says a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this culinary achievement.